Formulation Material Selection

High SPF Sun Care Formulation Strategy

High SPF Sun Care Formulation Strategy
Language: English
Length: 90 min
Oct 09, 2025 03:00 PM
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Course Description

Achieve high SPF & good UVA ratings with improved skin feel while minimizing actives in your sun care product formulation

Julian Hewitt will help you find ways to make actives more efficient and share practical strategies to help boost SPF: UV filters selection (organic, inorganic), rheology & film forming, photostability, cost, water-resistance...
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Julian Hewitt
Julian Hewitt
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Julian Hewitt is a leading expert on the formulation, development and testing of sunscreen products, with over 20 years of experience in this field.
Julian graduated from Oxford University in 1988 with a BA Honours Degree in Chemistry. After graduating, he joined Tioxide, working on new product development from 1988 to 1991. In 1991, he joined Tioxide's Solaveil Business, as Applications Research and Technical Service Manager for physical sunscreen products. He remained with the Solaveil business as it moved from Tioxide to ICI Performance Chemicals, then to Uniqema when the latter was formed in 1999, and finally to Croda, who purchased Uniqema in 2006.
During this time, Julian became recognised as one of the leading global experts in sun care. He represented Uniqema / Croda as the main customer technical focus for sun care products, developed and delivered training programmes for both internal and external audiences, and guided the development and launch of innovative new sun care ingredients.



Julian left Croda in October 2010 and has recently formed JPH SunCare Technologies, providing technical consultancy services, regulatory advice, and training to manufacturers of UV protection products and suppliers of ingredients used in such products.
Julian has presented papers and posters at over 30 conferences in venues across the World, and has written or co-authored more than 20 articles and 4 book chapters on formulating sunscreens and in-vitro SPF testing.
Conference Presentations

  • International Symposium on Cosmetic Sciences, Taichung, Taiwan, May 1994.
  • IFSCC Conference, Montreux, September 1995 (poster).
  • Czech Republic SCC Conference, Carlsbad, November 1995.
  • SCC Scientific Meeting, New York, December 1995.
  • In-Cosmetics Conference, Milan, March 1996.
  • Active Ingredients Conference, Paris, November 1996.
  • Broad Spectrum Sun Protection Conference, London, March 1997.
  • HBA Global Expo, New York, June 1997.
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Miami, September 1997.
  • SCS Spring Conference / In-Cosmetics Conference, London, April 1998 (co-author with G P Dransfield and P L Lyth).
  • IFSCC Congress, Cannes, September 1998 (poster).
  • European UV Sunfilters Conference, Paris, November 1998.
  • Sun Protection Conference, London, March 1999.
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 1999.
  • IFSCC Conference, Midrand, South Africa, October 1999.
  • European UV Sunfilters Conference, Paris, November 1999.
  • In-Cosmetics Conference, Barcelona, April 2000.
  • Sun Protection Conference (“UVA Protection – A Major Issue of Minor Importance ?”), London, June 2001.
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, April 2002.
  • IFSCC Congress, Edinburgh, September 2002 (poster).
  • European Sunfilters Conference, Paris, October 2003.
  • Joint ASCC/NZSCC Australasian Conference, Auckland, March 2004.
  • IFSCC Congress, Orlando, October 2004 (3 posters).
  • UK SCS Spring Symposium, Wotton-under-Edge, May 2005.
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2005.
  • IFSCC Congress, Osaka, October 2006 (poster).
  • In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Barcelona, April 2006.
  • Asian Societies of Cosmetic Scientists Conference, Singapore, March 2007.
  • In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Paris, April 2007.
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orlando, September 2007.
  • Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Conference, Surfers Paradise, March 2008.
  • In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Amsterdam, April 2008.
  • Natural Beauty Summit, Paris, October 2008.
  • In-Cosmetics Innovation Seminars, Munich, April 2009.
  • Florida Sunscreen Symposium, Orland
Why should you view this course?

Most of your consumers are looking for low-cost high SPF sunscreens, which are easier and more pleasant to apply (light weight, non-sticky, non-greasy)… To meet these needs along with good UVA ratings, you need to optimize many different aspects of your broad spectrum sunscreen formulation. It's far more than just a question of UV filters selection & loading! Join this course and:

  1. Select optimal UV filters (oil/water-based; organic/inorganic) to ensure complete UVB & UVA protection.

  2. Meet your high SPF targets while minimizing active levels (using the right system of solvents, dispersants, photo-stabilizers, emollients) to keep the cost low.

  3. Achieve high efficacy with improved skin feel (free of stickiness, greasiness) by optimizing all aspects like water-resistance, rheology & film-forming performance…

Who should join this course?
  • Sun care formulation chemists & R&D scientists working toward SPF 50+ with strong UVA while improving skin feel and cost-to-SPF.

  • Product development managers overseeing sunscreen pipelines who need practical levers (filter systems, rheology, film formers, photostability, water-resistance) to hit claims without overloading actives.

  • QA/QC and claims/testing liaisons who benefit from understanding formulation drivers and SPF calculation approaches to reduce rework.

  • Process/scale-up formulators translating lab wins to plant runs, where rheology control and film-forming robustness matter.

  • Indie brand founders / CMOs building competitive, high-SPF products with elegant sensorials at accessible cost.

  • Complete the course and (unlock your personalized certificate)– your badge of accomplishment awaits!

  • This course is suitable for intermediate level proficiency
    Intermediate
Questions you will be able to answer after this course:
  1. How do I select the right mix of UV filters (organic vs inorganic; oil- vs
    water-phase) to hit high SPF with a solid UVA rating?

  2. How can I minimize total UV-filter loading yet reach target SPF by tuning solvents, dispersants, photostabilizers, emollients, and overall system efficiency?

  3. Which rheology and film-forming choices most improve SPF performance on skin while avoiding a sticky/greasy feel?

  4. What are practical ways to boost photostability (filter combos, stabilizers)
    without compromising sensorials or cost?

  5. How do I design for water-resistance (materials and test-minded formulation
    tweaks) while keeping application pleasant?

  6. How do I balance cost-to-SPF (actives vs auxiliaries) to deliver low-cost,
    high-SPF
    products consumers actually like using?

  7. What screening/optimization sequence (filters → solvents/dispersants → film
    former/rheology → stability checks) accelerates development and reduces rework?

Course Outline

The following sections will be covered during this session:

Fundamental principles of Maximizing SPF efficacy

How to Achieve High SPF Targets?

Selecting UV filters

  • Synergies between organic and inorganic filters
  • Synergies between oil-based and water-based actives
  • Ensuring comprehensive coverage across the UVB and UVA

Selecting Formulation Type

  • O/W vs. W/O emulsions
  • Sprayable sunscreens
  • Other forms

Maximizing the Efficacy of UV Filters (Organic, Inorganic)

  • Selecting emollients, photo-stabilizers
  • Optimizing and maintaining dispersion in the formulation

How to Improve Efficacy of your Sunscreen Formulation?

Optimizing formulation rheology and film-forming properties

  • Fundamental rheological properties required for high performance
  • Practical guidelines for optimizing rheology in O/W and W/O systems
  • Using film-formers for "SPF Boosting"

Strategies for achieving water-resistance

  • Advantages and disadvantages of the different approaches
  • Combining complementary approaches

How to improve skin feel of high SPF sunscreens?

SPF Calculation Methods

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30 min Q & As for this course
Interact directly with your tutor and clarify your doubts
  1. 30 mins per session for Questions and Answers
  2. Clarify your doubts.
  3. If your questions are not answered, dont worry you will recieve tutor’s reply via email after sessions.
High SPF Sun Care Formulation Strategy
€299
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